1881 Men par Cerruti

Enough has already been said about the fragrance. I’ll just add that it’s not for blind buying. Although it has a ‘fresh’ image, it’s almost the opposite. It’s not dense, but very fougère (moss, juniper) and somewhat woody. It may or may not please you; it’s totally subjective. Against it: I find it very linear and don’t notice any evolution. Longevity and sillage are average and, given the price, acceptable.

A beautiful mossy hesperide that deserves more recognition. Neither the 1881 men’s nor the women’s version are unknown; they were bestsellers in the nineties until they went out of fashion. The grace is that they were never trendy perfumes, not even when they came out. Both had a classic edge compared to their contemporaries. That’s the key: today, thirty years later, they don’t smell like the nineties, but rather something regal and timeless, especially the men’s version. 1881 seems like a fresh sport scent, matching its matte glass bottle, but it’s strange compared to its era. While blue and tarred currents like Egoiste or Cool Water were entering, 1881 wasn’t playing in that league; it could be the father of all of them, obsessed with surfing and terraces. 1881 already did that; now enjoy reading a book with tea and lemon. If it were a person, it would be an adult who discovered that life is a pain and the best thing is to relax. It doesn’t resemble Rochas or the spiced crowd of Tommy and Hugo. It’s in no man’s land: it’s a sixties perfume updated for the nineties. The key is the moss, tons of it from the start until it settles. Like many waters today, I find it unisex. Do moss, dry citrus, and wildflowers have sex? No. 1881 opens with a strong breath of traditional moss, smoky and anesthetic. If it’s not your note, stay away. Gradually, it lowers the flag, leaving rough and bitter citrus, like Eau Sauvage or Boucheron. None of this was stylish in the nineties. My favorite phase is the heart: alongside the moss and aromatic notes, a divine floral and talcum background joins in. They aren’t flowers; they are talcum powder that smells of carnation and rose petals and fine woods. Unwittingly, I find it beautiful for the tenderness and civilization it offers to nature without taming it. The dry-down is a mess: it loses its green tone, the moss persists softened, and the floral talcum evolves into something less refreshing but present. Base notes that any clean sixties perfume would have. Launching it in 1990 was a statement of intent, which is not surprising with the Cerruti brand, which sought comfort and ease. Nino went all out, ahead of trends like unisex and comfy. Both 1881s were a hit. Sometimes, things made with care triumph. They deserved to be alongside the classic titans, because they are. PS: If you like Eau Sauvage, try this. You might like it or not due to the huge dose of moss.

C’est pour les hommes de 60 ans et plus, jusqu’à 120. Sa formule et sa chimie sont mal faites. Ma petite amie me l’a offert par erreur, donc je l’ai. Il est malveillant et n’est pas du goût des femmes, je l’ai déjà testé. Ni vous ne l’appréciez

J’adore le flacon et la fragrance, disons que ce n’est pas mal du tout, même si elle ne se distingue absolument pas. Je l’ai offerte à mon mari et il l’a utilisée sans protester, ce qui est un bon signe.

Ma critique porte sur le flacon actuel de 2017, je ne connais pas celui des années 90. Après plusieurs tests, l’arôme ne me convainc pas du tout. Il peut être classique, rappeler un peu Kouros et tout le positif qu’on peut dire, mais il a un séchage horrible. J’ai lu que quelqu’un le sentait « métallique et salé » ou même du soufre ; c’est mon cas aussi. Le départ est bon, citrus et herbe, le moment floral agréable, mais cela dure une demi-heure avant qu’un fond sec, chimique et très artificiel ne se révèle, montant et ensevelissant tout, comme un désinfectant. Cela gâche la fragrance. J’utilise Eau Sauvage depuis environ 25 ans et je ne vois aucune similitude ; ils peuvent partager des notes, mais disons qu’ils sont à des années-lumière. Le vétiver brille par son absence et sa faible durée ; dans son flanker « Sport », du moins, celui-ci tient jusqu’à la fin. Je ne recommande pas de l’acheter à l’aveugle, ni pour son prix ni pour autre chose ; parfois, il vaut mieux économiser pour l’ajouter à un autre achat plus judicieux. Si je trouve une bouteille des années 90, mon avis pourrait changer, mais celle-ci va droit au panier des « Axefragrances ». Cordialement.